Sierra Club Rock Rating M/E

Welcome to the Sierra Club Angeles Chapter M/E Rating Rock Exam/Practice Application

LTC Rock Chair

Prerequisites

Note:  The passing of the Rock skills exam does not constitute an acceptance as a provisional leader.  Provisional acceptance must include all required activities including outing experience and navigation. Final provisional status acceptance is made at the LTC committee level.  

You must...

  • read through this entire web page.
  • be in the LTC leadership track.  Seminar, O/I rating, WFA 
  • have previous roped climbing experience (Climbing Resume submittal required)  
  • be an active Sierra Club member and provide your member number
  • own or be willing to purchase the required climbing gear.

Acceptance Priorities

  • The candidates for M or E rating exam will be selected using the following priorities:
1.  Sierra Club Member enrolled in the LTC leadership program with goal of M/E rock rating.
2.  Sierra Club Members who actively climb with Angeles sections: SPS, DPS, HPS or other
3.  Rock climbing experience required on outdoor areas.  Preference for alpine style climbs.
4.  Completion of AMP while not a prerequisite, will be an advantage to passing the check-off exam.

  • The application form will ask the potential participant to self-attest these prerequisites.

    Locations

    • All rock exams and practices will be conducted on outdoor climbing areas including Stoney Point, Joshua Tree, Alabama Hills, Big Rock, 5 Fingers, etc.
    • The Rock Chair will conduct 3 types of outings for the M/E Rock 
      • Rock Practice Only.  Certain outings will be scheduled for practice only and not available for examination.  This is the potential candidates time to confirm if they are ready for the exam.
      • Private Examination: Candidates who are ready for the exam may be scheduled for a private outing not scheduled.  These are single day outings with no practice.
      • Rock Practice/Exam:  This outing will conduct a practice on the first day and the exam for candidates on the second day.

    Application Process (Rating Candidates only)  

    • Practice-only participants will be considered only for "Practice only" outings or when candidates are also being considered (Rock Practice/Exam outing)
    • Visit this page and review: Leadership outings advanced ratings
    •  Application (Rock candidates only):  LTC Rock M/E Rating Application
    • Submit Climbing Resume (candidates only) to the LTC Rock Chair via email.
    • Complete a Rock Check preliminary questionnaire to be submitted once that application is accepted.

    Preparing For Practice and/or Check-off

    • Download, study and practice all skills on the M/E check-off form
    • On Practice/Exam outings, Rock Rating Practice only participants may declare readiness for examination only if the application process is completed prior to the outing.
    • Practice the following knots and be able to tie and apply them for the examiner without hesitation.  If you cannot pass this section, you cannot proceed with the rest of the exam.
      1. Figure 8                                            10. BHK
      2. Figure 8 Follow Through                  11. Girth Hitch  
      3. Figure 8 On a Bite                            12. Clove Hitch
      4. Bowline                                             13. Munter Hitch
      5. Bowline on a Coil on self                  14.  Munter-Mule Hitch combination
      6. Bowline on a Coil on climber            15.  Prusik Friction Knot
      7. Double Fisherman (on rope/cord)    16. Kleimheist Friction Knot
      8.  Water Knot (on webbing)                 17. Autoblock Friction Knot (for rappel backup)
      9. Slip Knot
    • All exams will be performed on class 3 or 4 terrain.
    • Candidates are only allowed questions during the practice session or prior to the start of the exam.
    • Ratings of 0-fail, 1-marginal and 2-pass are provided for each of the skills on the Rock form.  
      • Any skill with a 0-fail rating will constitute a fail of the exam.
      • 3 or more skills with a 1-marginal rating constitutes a fail of the exam.
    • Sierra Club mountaineering Candidates will be guiding participants on M/E outings and as such are required to understand and practice sound group management skills.  During the exam, candidates will be tested not only on the climbing skill, but also on their knowledge and practice of outings group focused skills.
    • Please come prepared for your exam.  Candidates must provide their own climbing gear.  Don't forget helmet, harness, and adequate footwear.
    • Efficient gear management/packing ability goes a long way with showing competence. 
    • Rope management skills are also very crucial to leading a successful group Rock outing.
    • Good Luck and happy climbing.
    Other questions?  Please email LTC-Rock-Chair@ampsc.org
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